what's here

Ken's climbing by region or mountain group, roughly south to north.

Follow or Top-Rope, unless explicitly says Lead or solo.

·       California + Nevada

·       Washington

·       Colorado

·       British Columbia

Red River Gorge - Kentucky

Muir Valley

Bruise Brothers (15nov w Karl)

* Lead: Rat Stew [10a], Send Me on My Way [9-], Bee’s Business [7]

* TR Critters on the Cliff [10d]

Great Wall (15nov w Karl)

* Bitter Ray of Sunshine [10a]

Hideout (15nov w Karl)

* Boltergeist [10b]

Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)

Gallery (15nov w Karl)

* Lead: 27 Years of Climbing [8]

* Happy Trails [10d] w rests, A Brief History of Climb [10b]

California

Lover’s Leap

·       Hospital Corner [10a] w Petch

·       Arctic Breeze [10a]

·       Absolutely Billy P1 [10a]

·       Stem Meister [10a]

·       Yankee Dog [11c] needed some pulling to get thru the crux.

·       Power Lust [11a] got crux on 3rd try

·       Crash Landing [10a]

Tuolumne Meadows area

·       OZ (“ounce”) [10d] w some falls + hangs - w Miranda 15aug

·       Little Sheba [10a] - w Miranda 15aug

·       Great Circle [10a] + Honeymoon's Over [8], on Daff Dome South Flank

·       Lembert Dome, direct NW face - w Gary

·       Fairview Dome, Regular Route [9] - w Pat

·       West Crack [9] on Daff Dome

·       South Crack [8] on Stately Pleasure Dome

·       Golfer's Route [7], on Low Profile Dome - Lead w Sharon

·       Darth Vader's Revenge [10a], on Low Profile Dome

Cathedral Range area

·       Cathedral Peak, SE Buttress [6] - w Gary

·       Unicorn N-NW face of N peak, then middle peak then traverse S ridge and S peak - 13aug

·       Matthes Crest south end partial - Lead w Sharon

·       Matthes Crest north half - solo partial 13aug
- - then with rope partner full including northern mini-towers 14jly

Tioga Pass area

·       Third Pillar of Dana - Regular Route [10b variation] - w Zach 14aug

·       Mt Conness, West ridge [6] - follow first two pitches w Pat, then dual solo // down-climb all but first two pitches, then back up - solo 13aug

·       Mt Conness, North ridge [6] - dual solo w Pat, one rappel // complete solo 13aug

 
southern Sierra Eastside mountains

·       Temple Crag (3962m), Sun Ribbon Arete [10a oblig] w Howie - 15aug

·       Bear Creek Spire, Northeast ridge [class 4-5], dual solo w Pat

·       Crystal Crag, N ridge - Lead w Sharon 13aug

·       Crystal Crag aretes direct, S ridge - solo 13aug

·       Little Lakes Peak, NNW ridge + descend NE ridge - solo 14aug

·       Little Lakes Peak, upper SW ridge w start from W face - solo 15jly

·       Mt Russell E ridge fairly direct - solo 14aug

·       Mt Carillon W ridge direct - solo  14aug

·       Pinnacle Pass (Whitney zone) N side - solo 14aug

·       Mt Emerson, SE face - solo 14jly

·       Mt Laurel, Mendenhall couloir - solo 13aug

·       Mt Whitney, by Mountaineers gully 2x : w Ken, w Gi

·       Mt Williamson, W face, Bolton Brown route, dual solo w Dave

·       U-notch couloir (Palisades) solo w Gi on skis

 

Cardinal Pinnacle

·       West Face [10a] 4 pitches, w Forrest 15aug . . . with several additions:

·       11d pitch parallel right of West Face P2, except did not get one move, needed tension for another.

·       Cucumbers P2 10a

·       Shadows in the Rain 11a w some hangs

·       Bard-Harrington Finish 10d w two hangs

·       The Prow P3 12b with many hangs and much tension.

·       Reach for the Sky 10c with some hangs

 

southern Sierra Eastside crags

·       Matrimony Wall : Kreighton's Bastard Child (the harder original FA way) 11a w rests + Drive Through Chapel 10a

·       Dike Wall E face: Black Lassie 10c w hangs, Black Dihedral 10b - 15jly

·       Dike Wall E face: Cromagnon 10a w hangs | N face: Mongoloid 10b + 8 + 9 : - 14aug

·       Horseshoe Piles : Spring Wall 11a w hangs, 10c w hangs, 10c, 9,8,8 - w Sharon 15aug

·       Horseshoe Piles : Wavy Gravy : 10c 10a 8 - w Sharon 15aug

·       Horseshoe Piles : Stream Wall - East sector : Floracation 7 - w Sharon 15aug

·       Horseshoe Piles : Stream Wall - North sector w Sharon 15aug :
* Meaning of Life 11a w hangs
* All Work No Spray 11+ w hangs, except didn’t get sequence off the ground.
* Arroyo Seco 10d

·       Horseshoe Slabs + Sunshine Wall: various 7-10a - w Sharon 14aug + 15aug

·       Warming Wall at Mammoth Lakes : four 10a's with Mike - 13aug

·       Clark Canyon + Casa Diablo : various easy w Sharon - 13aug

·       Gong Show crag (Rock Creek) : Hey! 11a, He-She 10b, Sideshow 10a - 14aug

·       Iris Slab (Rock Creek) : 10a, 8, 8, 8 w Sharon 15aug

·       . . . Pine Creek . . .

·       Mustache Wall 10a-11b - w Viren 16may

·       . . . Owens River Gorge - org . . .

·       org Social Platform : Expressway 11b w hangs, also tried Chillin at the Grill 11c but didn't really get all the moves free.

·       org Pub Wall: Hungover 11b w hangs, Hardly Wallbanger 10c, Aditafun 9

·       org Gotham City: Poison Ivy variation 10c, Machine Gun Jumblies 10a, Dr Evil 10a - 14sep

·       org Warmup Wall: some 8s and 6 - w Sharon 14nov

·       . . . Alabama Hills . . .  

·       Tall Wall: some 8s, one 10b - w Sharon 14nov

·       Hoodgie - w Sharon 16jan

·       Arizona Tower - w Sharon 16apr

·       Corridors: Sunday Matinee Wall - w Sharon 16apr

·       Candy Store: Tootsie Pop Wall - w Gi 16apr

 
other

·       Mt Shasta, from E side, Hotlum-Wintun ridge

·       Joshua Tree : various moderates with Karl 12jan

Nevada

·       Red Rocks single-pitch : various 8-10a, one each 10b+, 10d, 11a with rests - w Karl 12jan
Panty Wall 5.8 routes - w Sharon 14dec

·       Red Rocks multi-pitch : Birdland 5.7+ w Karl 12jan

·       Las Vegas limestone
Gun Club south wall: 11b, 11b w rests, 10a w Andy 16jan
Urban Crag lower: various moderates - w Karl 12jan
Waterworks: [9] w Karl 12jan

·       at other crags in driving range of Las Vegas :
Excalibur [11c] w many tries to get one sequence, Homeostasis[11b] w rests, another [11b]  w rests - 14dec

Washington

·       Forbidden Peak, East ridge direct [8] - w Gary

·       Sloan Peak, SE face [7] - w Gary

·       Mt Rainier by Emmons glacier - dual solo

·       Dome Peak - solo

·       Eldorado Peak, by East ridge + Klawatti Peak - dual solo w John

·       Mt Adams by Mazama glacier - solo

Leavenworth

·       Snow Creek Wall: Outer Space [9] - w Gary

·       Givler's Dome: Givler's Crack + Wilson-McNerthney - w Peter

·       Classic Crack [8] on Eightmile Boulder Icicle Creek - TR

·       Castle Rock: Midway [5] - Lead w Sharon+Tony

·       Castle Rock: Saints [8] + South Face [8] + Winter Solstice - w Gary

Peshastin Pinnacles

·       Grand Central Tower: West Face [8] - Lead w Sharon, + TR West Face Direct
+ Lightning Crack P1 [8] - Lead w Sharon

·       Dinosaur Tower: Potholes [7] - w Peter

·       Martian Tower: Grey Whale + Harpoonist w Brian+Peter, Porpoise w Peter+Sharon, Diagonal w Eric

·       Sunset: National Velvet + Sickle: Windward Direct - w Gary

Static Point

·       On Line [10b] - w Peter + Sharon

·       Shock Treatment P1+P2 [9] - w Peter + Sharon

Index

·       Great Northern Slab [6] - Lead w Tony

more ...

·       Ingalls Peak North, by S ridge [class 5] - Lead w Sharon+Tony

·       Chair Peak, by E face [class 4-5] - Lead w Sharon

·       Mt Baker by Easton glacier - w Sharon

·       Little Tahoma, normal route - solo

·       Mt Shuksan from S side - solo

·       Mt St Helens from south side - solo

·       North Twin Sister, West ridge [class 3-4] - solo

·       Dragontail - w Gi

Colorado

·       Bastille Crack in Eldorado Canyon

·       3rd Flatiron, East Face - Lead w Sharon

·       Mt Sneffels - hike/scramble solo

British Columbia, Canada

Squamish

·       Diedre [8] on the Chief, Central Apron - Lead w Sharon

·       Sugarloaf: Worlds Toughest Milkman [8] + Tourist Delight [10a]

·       Penny Lane: Quarry Man [8] + Clandestine Affair [9]

·       Neat and Cool: Cat Crack + Corner Crack [7] + Corn Flakes [6] + Neat and Cool [10a]

·       Octopus' Garden: Edible Panties [7] + Octopus' Garden in the Shade [8] + Unearthly Delights [9]

 

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